Thursday, July 30, 2015

Attacked by a Sea Monster

One of the pleasures of living here in Muscat is my daily swim in the ocean at dusk. It’s the Gulf of Oman, the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea, the Straight of Hormuz....whatever. I think it’s all those.

As part of my recent renewal of efforts to heal my back, which includes different exercises and a course of ayurvedic treatment, I have been enjoying my close proximity to a gentle and warm, nurturing sea by taking an hour or so every night to baste myself in the salt water.

The water at Shatti al Qurm has been about 28-30 C and smooth and calm as a milk bath. Mountain Boy, B and I passed plenty of Ramadan sunsets in near solitude out there as most of the city was rushing to iftars. But this season, and this indulgence, must draw to a close. I was already missing my evening bathe-I can’t call it a “swim,” really, as there wasn’t much in the way of exercise, it was mainly bobbing about and admiring the colors on the water. Well, the sea said goodbye to me!

The Indian Monsoon  has an influence on the water in Northern Oman, even if we don’t benefit from the cool temperature and mists of khareef like Salalah does. Cold currents have been running though the water in the past week, and, with Ramadan now behind us, there are plenty of people in the water. So the energy has changed already.
Mountain Boy is out of town so there has just been B and I this week. We tend to get out earlier if he’s not with us, just after dark in fact, as the water seems to change and, as they say, we can’t imagine all the creatures that live there, the secrets that it holds. The nighttime ocean is different and unknowable, teeming with horrors, so they say.

Monday night was the same--the water, now that I think about it, had a distinctly malevolent feel. I scanned the waters around us the entire time; I thought I was looking for fins.

What I did see was a vague grey shape, about 10 yards/metres away. It was flat and could have belonged to a big ray, or a fish, or even a small whaleshark, even though we were pretty close to the shore. But I couldn’t actually focus on it and I wasn’t sure if it was a hallucination or what. It could have even been a piece of garbage for all I knew. But I kept watching it. It appeared and disappeared, bobbing on the waves. And there was a big school of sardines nearby as well. This is their season and they are around almost every day. I know there will be sardine predators around. The fish had actually swam straight into B the evening before, startling her, and scaring them. Of course something will have been chasing them.

I stood up-the water was only waist deep, and craned my neck to see further. The thing disappeared and B was talking. I felt extremely uneasy but obviously I didn’t take myself seriously because feeling uneasy in the ocean is probably a good time to get out.

Something nipped behind my right knee. It felt like a crab--we get those little nips quite often out there. It’s creepy. And I called out that hey, I got bit! And reached my hand down to it. I could have been backing up too, but I don’t know.

As I bent down, some horrible thing grabbed me from behind. I realize it probably was just there, and didn’t actually grab my ass or climb on my back and wasn’t going to drag me down into the depths, but it sure did feel like it. It felt like it jumped on me. I felt like the prey of some hideous non-mammalian thing. Absolutely terrifying. I whipped around with my arms, apparently, and something brushed my right forearm and left fingers and it was an instant explosion of burning pain. I didn’t have a grip on the thing, of course, and spun around to see what it was and there was some creature in the water, like a big fish, or a ray. It was gray or brown, and seems like it had a pink stripe. I saw about 3 feet worth; it might have been coiled. The two main impressions I got where “strong, all muscle” and “catfish whisker.” I prefer mammals, thanks.

I realized that I should look closer but also that if I did, then it might attack me again, and I was all shooting burning pain in my arm and fingers. So I started wading out, with B, and I swear I was shouting at people to get out of the water, and I’ve been stung, and other stuff, but apparently I was only hyperventilating. Once on the beach people came up me-I was very white, and there was a big red poison spot or something on my forehead with a line going down. I was shaking, and really freaking out. Some guys called the ambulance but I refused it when they called me, as I was too confused. In retrospect, I should have taken it. And since when do we feel pain immediately? Aren’t a few seconds supposed to pass, at least? Aren’t we supposed to be raging with adrenaline, and not feeling debilitating pain until the clear and present danger is over?

An hour later B had me at the clinic, where they treated me for shock, and tetanus. I followed up the next morning, and, because I didn’t care for the doctor, I also went to Muscat Private hospital, and they referred me to the Royal Hospital Emergency room, as they are the ones who deal with poisons and bites.
I’m extremely infected, with a high white cell count of 25000, and very low blood pressure although that’s probably better by now. I was admitted for 2 days and my IV of antibiotics have now been traded for oral ones that are kind of scary and smell like ether.

The pain got worse over the next few hours, and burned like acid. Then it felt like someone hit my elbow with a hammer. The next day it felt like that hammer hit was a day old. And needles from time to time. Even now I feel them. The pain seemed to settle into my bones and nerves, not affecting the muscles.

I have no idea what it was and evidently no one else does either. That seems strange to me. I could be convinced it was a ray, except that I don’t actually have a puncture. No blood. No bite. This was more like a jellyfish sting, but the creature was strong and fishlike. Jellyfish family? My friend who dives said there is a thing that lives only here, and the name in Dhofari arabic is like “snake” but in fuzhah it’s “jellyfish” and it’s very poisonous.

I don’t have any idea, and google offers nothing. I am a big person, and this was my limb. If a small person, like a child, was stung on the torso, what would happen? Hell, if I was stung on the torso, what would have been the case?

My friend who knows the ocean thinks I should go abroad for treatment. I don’t know if he knows something I don’t. I seem to be improving. Will hunker down this next week, and hopefully flush it out. My arm is still painful. It’s 72 hours. The mark looks like nothing, a mild abrasion. The poison dot and line are gone. A little fever comes and goes but hasn’t gone high.

The explanation most people like is that it’s an odd and terrible creature that came in from the deep ocean, not something usual. We can’t imagine what is out there, and I now find this so true. It disturbs me, though, that no one has heard about this aggressive  thing, who can inject so much poison and bacteria by the merest scratch, a quick sting. Am I the only one to feel its sting? How can that be?



Sunday, June 14, 2015

Weekend in Doha

Museum of Islamic Art
I know there are plenty of things to say about Qatar but you gotta hand it them; they sure do make the most of what they have. Qatar basically has oil and natural gas. It’s not exactly an island but it may as well be one, since the only land border is to the dreaded absolute no-go zone of Saudi Arabia (if you’re a woman and a westerner that is.) So there they are, those Qataris, on a small peninsula of land, baking in the sun, with none of the natural spectacular beauty of Oman, etc. But the oil and gas have given them the amazing distinction of suddenly having one of the highest standards of living in the world. And they brought stuff in: besides the museums, there is Al Jazeera, and a continuous roster of concerts, horse shows, films, any cultural even you can think of, and all free. Yes, that’s right. No money needed. So Friday at the MIA you will find groups of the much-maligned Bangladeshi workers looking at the exhibits. This is wonderful, and probably wouldn’t be the case if a fee was charged. Culture as a human right. Interesting that Qatar is the country who actually manages this.

I remember we landed there in 1989 on a Gulf Air flight to India, hopping through all those Gulf Airports. Doha had a few little fighter jets sprinkled around the tarmac, and one commercial plane, and a quonset hut. I don’t know what the city itself looked like but now it looks like this:

Modern Doha

I see it this way: Every GCC country picks a kind of theme; like Oman is “Natural Beauty and Hospitable People.” I probably shouldn’t list the other countries, as their themes aren’t necessarily flattering nor true, although some are. But Qatar’s is “Culture.” and they do totally rock it. Witness the Museum of Islamic Art.

I wanted to go there for years, and finally made it! Designed by I.M. Pei, the architecture itself is really fabulous, very interesting, magnificent. And the collections are really great, with Iran, India, Afghanistan, and Syria and Iraq quite well represented. It’s especially poignant now, with all the destruction of Islamic culture by those morons who claim to represent it....and worth remembering to any westerner who feels a little islamophobic or threatened by any of those extremist groups, that they (extremists) might hate you, but they hate other Muslims more, and their victims are mostly other Muslims, so get a grip please.



Anyway, the MIA is magnificent in every respect, from the way the pieces are displayed, the respect they are shown, to the way the light plays off the water and the passing seacraft create their own ambiance in the front. There are two temporary exhibitions now: Marvellous Creatures--showing animals in traditional Islamic Art and then upstairs you can see a wonderful show--Qajar Women. These pictures are primarily of women of the Persian court in the 19th century, just doing things, and it’s a great exhibit. As a bonus, in the hall outside are some modern images of how these women might look today and the originals are on view at a gallery in Teheran.

The theme of my weekend was art and treatments and that’s what I did. The new Zubarah hotel is excellent, and their spa is fantastic--the therapists are great, reducing me to a drooling lump of wasted wiggle three days running. Also worth a visit if you’re in Doha for a couple of days is Souq Waqif. It’s been renovated but it still has character and, most importantly, is still a bustling, working souq. It’s not just for tourists. It’s just very clean and very pretty.. Their spice market was one of the most enjoyable I’ve ever been to. Everything is fresh, neatly kept in plastic tubs from IKEA or The Container Store I think. Everything labeled, and no worry about which vermin run through the spices at night! Yes, this is my life. Cockroaches and rats crawling though the spices are always in the back of my mind when I enjoy strolling around a traditional souq, and I try to buy from places that look as if they are aware of vermin and keep them out. No problem in Doha, let me tell you. Hey, in this respect at least, I am a realist. 


Dried lemons of different ages and roses too.

I also visited the Souq Waqif Art Gallery; they have 2 spaces in the front showing some pretty interesting pieces from the Arab world, even Oman. And the hall is lovely. Qatari artists sit around painting and drawing. That’s nice.

And looking for dinner that night I found a Kunefe and Baklava Cafe. Kunefe is one of those things that you are probably better off not knowing about, but never mind. It’s a cheese pastry, and can be made in a few ways, but the dough is that thin noodle crispy one. It’s cooked in butter, the cheese melts inside, it all gets crispy, and then rosewater sugar syrup is poured on top. And pistachios. So a plate of this comes, crispy and glistening, and the cheese melting from the sides. I mean really, how can you not have it? There are people everywhere eating these plates of kunefe at the Kunefe restaurant in Souq Waqif.  And not grossly obese people either. Salaam!








Holy Crap! Kunefe! Try this when you can!
So that was basically my weekend in Doha. If you’re a single woman traveling alone in the Gulf area (and not already in Qatar,) then Doha is a perfect destination. It’s not a party place--Beirut is the place for that, or Istanbul. Or even Dubai if you like,  but for art and massage treatments, and some low-key, unexpectedly good food, Doha’s the place.

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Riyadh- Saudi advertises for swordsmen as execution rate soars - from Muscat Daily News

Hmmm. Sound familiar? ISIS? Al Qaeda? Not exactly! It's America's wonderful and so civilized ally: Saudi Arabia. Any resemblance to well known terror groups must certainly be coincidence.......



Riyadh - 
Saudi Arabia advertised vacancies for eight executioners Tuesday after beheading nearly as many people since the start of the year as it did in the whole of 2014.
The civil service ministry said that no qualifications were necessary and that applicants would be exempted from the usual entrance exams.
It said that as well as beheadings, the successful candidates would be expected to carry out amputations ordered by the courts.
Amputation of one or both hands is a routine penalty for theft. Drug trafficking, rape, murder, apostasy and armed robbery are all punishable by death.
Most executions are carried out by beheading, but a few are carried out by firing squad, stoning or crucifixion.
All are carried out in public and video footage sometimes appears on the Internet despite a ban on filming.
In January, gruesome footage was posted of a Myanmarese woman protesting her innocence before being beheaded by a swordsman on a public street in Mecca.
Ignoring her screams, the white-robed executioner forces her to lie down on the ground, near a pedestrian crossing, then severs her head with a curved sword. The official Saudi Press Agency (SPA) said that Layla bint Abdul Mutaleb Bassim had been sentenced to death for killing her husband's six year old daughter.
The vacancies were advertised on the ministry's website in the 'religious jobs' section.
Last year, Saudi Arabia executed 87 people, according to an AFP tally, ranking it third in the world for use of the death penalty.
Already this year, it has put 85 people to death in what human rights group Amnesty International has described as a 'macabre spike'.
On Tuesday, a convicted serial rapist of young girls was beheaded in Riyadh, SPA reported.
The Interior Ministry says the death penalty is an important deterrent. But on a visit to Riyadh this month, French President Francois Hollande said capital punishment 'should be banned'.
AFP






Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Rose, and Blue, and Sand

Kalaat M'Gouna Roses
I couldn’t help it but come back to Morocco. After all, there are roses here and indeed they are the finest, sweetest, strongest and even friendliest flowers I’ve known. We made a beeline for Kalaat M’Gouna, for, as they say here at the Ouzarzate film studio, Take 2.

This trip I do believe I picked more roses than thorns, and it’s not over yet. We stayed in a fantastic traditional Berber aerie above a fat and thickly cultivated green wonder of olives, roses, wheat, citrus, and various herbs, vegetables and other fruits, all nestled in a wadi hardly bigger than a crevasse. Visiting rose distillers by day, sitting with our companions the moon and the wind by night, and all the while imbibing thyme tea, verbena infusions, and lovingly prepared vegetarian tagine and omelets, we left with reluctance, after a few days.



Women's Argan Cooperative


I think the Berbers have it down. Signs everywhere point to organics,  traditional cuisine, trekking, and roses. Well, yeah. Olive oil, honey, argan oil, verbena, oranges.........exactly. The Berber word for Berber is Amazingh and this means “Free People.” So let my imagination run to this and enjoy the way they have managed to create a beautiful and welcoming enclave in the area between the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara. It was really a magical romp through loveliness. The air is clean and fresh, the sky almost a cartoon blue; the bright deep pure blue of the desert but lit from within.

We went down to the edge of the desert, to a town called M’Hamid, and from there into the dunes. Unseasonably hot temperatures meant the snow pack melted high in the Atlas and a flash flood cut off the guest house--we had to cross a river by 4 x 4 and nearly flipped it! The river runs rarely and so no one knows how to drive it--people in M’Hamid are desert people. We had to jump out into the flood as the Landcruiser tipped over on its side. But we survived so it was all in good fun.

Bees on Sweet Rolls!!


One thing I am a little confused about is Tamarisk trees. I remember they are all over places like Palm Springs, which is desert, and they are also apparently used to halt desertification in China. Presumably this is because they are hardy, thrive in adversity and anchor the soil? Not sure. But they are also known as Salt Cedar. They salinate the soil (sand) and as they die off, they make sand dunes. I looked them up and it seems they are pretty universally considered an aggressive and invasive species. The Sahara grows and deserifies constantly, and these trees are partly to blame. They say every year it (The Sahara) encroaches another 7 kilometers!


Leaving the desert behind us, we drove the tiny winding road back to Marrakech, crossing the Atlas Mountains and staying in a California style bungalow hotel on the film studio premises in Ouzarzate. As is usual in Southern Morocco, once you get north of the sand and hamada (rocky desert) it was bursting with geranium, roses, olives, artemisia, citrus and thyme.
Mimosa


Leaving Marrakech for Casablanca that evening, we were not totally thrilled to have our headlights go out on the rental car as we drove the big highway. It was so dark, and before the moon rose. No lights on the Highway—except the stars. We lost our taillights and headlights! Pitch black! I put the hi-beams on and then the hazard lights too but every car flashed us to say we had no lights! Completely irritating and quite terrifying as I thought we might lose the hi-beams as well, but we managed to limp back the 70 km to Marrakech and change the car in the morning.

We arrived to a fantastic riad here in the Medina of Sale, which is right next to Rabat, near the sea. It’s a traditional Moroccan house, and so gorgeous, with a spectacular rooftop garden and we had no idea before, but it’s the only vegetarian riad in Morocco (maybe.) And the owner, Jan, is a fantastic cook who, thankfully, offers cooking classes and so my big decision is what to learn how to make but fortunately that’s not until morning. It’s called The Repose, and if you are going to be in the Casablanca/Rabat/Kenitra area, I highly recommend it.

We spent our day at the Rosemary/Cedar/Khella/Myrtle/Chamomile/Mint distillery.


I had a totally cool cupping session one of the nights in Sale.  The therapist, Jamila, did a little bloodletting and then sucked the “bad blood” out through the cups—I’ve had it done once and that time there was hardly any blood even though I was told “stagnant” blood comes out thick like jelly and very dark. This time it was golden! She sucked great black gobs of black jelly-goo out of the small of my back and then smeared honey all over it before I fell asleep. Supposedly if you do it every month, then, with time, the blood gets less and thinner and redder. I was very excited and impressed by the exudate and couldn’t stop laughing. Does my back feel better? Yes, hard to say how much yet, but it does. All that horrible crap was in my body! As humans, as meat, we must be inedible, so much disgusting effluvia in each of us.

We had to finally tear ourselves out of Sale and drive back to Marrakech. Outside of the heat, which was admittedly a little much, it’s a really nice city. Not aggressive, even the drivers. Trees and flowers everywhere. Not too crowded. Wonderful colors. Excellent food. Enough intrigue to keep it interesting. Even some nice shopping. Good cafĂ© experiences. Pretty architecture. Great style, low key and relaxed. However, we didn’t go back to the medina—glad we were there but it’s the opposite of the above. Modern Marrakech was fun on its own.

The Moroccans have all been lovely, and friendly and kind, except for one annoying street in Marrakech and the police who demanded a big bribe on the road. The food is absolutely phenominal—and its so easy to eat vegetarian. We’ve had vegetable or egg tagine every day, or couscous. The bread is fresh, crusty and a little sour, and the olives are wonderful. And we’ve had plenty of oranges, almonds and honey, great company, and lovely people we’ve met, all in a spectacular setting. What more could one ask for? Feels like I’ve been here for months and it’s only two weeks. Another thing I really like about here is that you can find music everywhere. I do miss music.
Moonset 












Monday, April 06, 2015

Americans Stranded in Yemen and the US Government has "no plans to evacuate" them.

Thanks to the Canadian Broadcasting Co (CBC)
Despite evacuations of nationals by many other countries, including Russia. China, and Somalia, the US has no plans to evacuate her citizens stuck in Yemen. It's apparently "too risky."

Yet the US certainly evacuated about 100 Special Forces from their camp near Lahj just before the Saudi bombardment started in late March. The US also saved two Saudi pilots who bailed out over the Red Sea. But Yemeni-Americans have been left behind with no means of escape as a clusterfuck of fighting ignites all over the country, between Houthi, Saudi led coalition, local tribes and AQAP. The reasoning seems to be along the lines of: we told you to leave; if you're still there it's your fault, and good luck to you.

This might be logically (if unreasonably) thought out for those people studying arabic, or working in oil, or whatever, but Yemeni-Americans are, obviously, Yemeni, meaning they have family in Yemen and have stayed behind, not of willful defiance, but because they were trying to help their families. The are also American, meaning they have US passports and are therefore entitled to the same protection as any other Americans. Even if they are Arab. Because it boils down to that. Good luck trying to convince us otherwise.

The Indians evacuated Bangladeshis and Sri Lankans. The Chinese evacuated a host of different nationalities. But the supposedly strongest and best fighting force in world can't evacuate their own citizens from a conflict in which America is a part of? The coalition is Saudi Arabian led, and supported by the US government.
One might assume that Americans will be specifically targeted for retribution.
And the American government just bails, and sends an awe-inspiring passive aggressive email stating how concerned they are for Americans caught in the fighting and gives some breathtaking alternatives to save their lives.

Text & photo thanks to Aljazeera America

So far, one American has died. Jamal al-Labani, a 40 year old father of three, from Oakland, California, was returning home from mosque on Tuesday evening with his 14-year-old Yemeni nephew when both were hit by mortar shelling, according to his cousin Mohammed Alazzani, who spoke to Al Jazeera from the San Francisco Bay Area. Both died as a result of injuries sustained.

Oh, yes, by the way, the embassy staff was evacuated in February. By the Omani government.  And if you're not in this part of the world you may not realize that The Sultanate of Oman has no part in the Saudi-led offensive. It's the only GCC country that remains neutral. Yet Oman is delivering humanitarian aid to people trapped in Yemen. Oman is also a close American ally, and also maintains friendly relations with every other country in the world, including all aggressors in this stupid war, in which the Yemeni people are suffering greatly.

All this flabbering and yowling about our strength, determination, bravery, capabilities, family values and democracy, and then this.......for God's sake, America. Respect yourself.

Here is the link to a website set up to help those who are trying to flee the violence
It's called Stuck in Yemen.
www.stuckinyemen.com

I have the embassy email here:

SUBJECT:  TRAVEL WARNING – YEMEN   April 4, 2014 at 4:46 AM

1. The U.S. Department of State warns U.S. citizens of the high  security threat level in Yemen due to terrorist activities and civil unrest. On February 11, 2015 due to the deteriorating security situation in Sanaa, the Department of State suspended embassy operations and U.S. Embassy Sanaa American staff have been relocated out of the country. All consular services, routine and/or emergency, have been suspended until further notice. The Department urges U.S. citizens to defer travel to Yemen and those U.S. citizens currently living in Yemen to depart when you are able to safely do so. This supersedes the Travel Warning for Yemen issued on February 11, 2015.

2. The level of instability and ongoing threats in Yemen remain severe.  There are no plans for a U.S. government-coordinated evacuation of U.S. citizens at this time. We encourage all U.S. citizens to shelter in a secure location until they are able to depart safely. U.S. citizens wishing to depart should do so via commercial transportation options when they become available. Keep vital records and travel documents close at hand; U.S. citizens should be prepared to depart at a moment’s notice.  The airports are currently closed, but may open unexpectedly; other unforseen opportunities to depart may also suddenly arise.

3. Additionally, some foreign governments may arrange transportation for their nationals and may be willing to offer assistance to others.  There is no guarantee that foreign governments will assist U.S. citizens in leaving Yemen.  U.S. citizens who choose to seek foreign government assistance in leaving Yemen should only do so if they can safely make their way to the point of embarkation and have received confirmation that there is space available.  Even if assured there is space aboard transportation, U.S. citizens should be aware that there is no guarantee that they will be permitted to board the transport, or may have to wait an indefinite period until they can do so.  There is also no guarantee of where travelers will go.For U.S. citizen inquiries, you may send an email to YEMENEMERGENCYUSC@state.gov.

4. Terrorist organizations, including Al-Qaida in the Arabian Peninsula (AQAP), continue to be active throughout Yemen. The U.S. government remains extremely concerned about possible attacks on U.S. citizens (whether visiting or residing in Yemen), and U.S. facilities, businesses, and perceived U.S. and Western interests. In addition, piracy in the Red Sea, Gulf of Aden, and Indian Ocean is a security threat to maritime activities in the region. See our International Maritime Piracy Fact Sheet.

5. U.S. citizens remaining in Yemen despite this Travel Warning should limit nonessential travel within the country, make their own contingency emergency plans, enroll their presence in Yemen through the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP), and provide their current contact information and next-of-kin or emergency contact information. You may inform the Department of State of U.S. citizens located in Yemen by visiting https://tfa.state.gov/ccd, selecting “2015 Yemen Unrest,” and providing as much information as possible.  You can also contact us at 1-888-407-4747 (from the U.S. & Canada), +1-202-501-4444 (from overseas), and YemenEmergencyUSC@state.gov if you have additional questions or concerns.

6. For the latest security information, U.S. citizens living and traveling abroad should regularly monitor the State Department's Bureau of Consular Affairs website where the current Worldwide Caution, Travel Alerts and Travel Warnings, and Country Specific Information for Yemen can be found. Up-to-date information on security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States and Canada or, for callers in other countries, by calling a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).


What part of this idiocy to rip first? You decide.



Thursday, March 26, 2015

Enfleurage Middle East's Changing Face

You never really know how things are gonna go--as much as we like to revel in enlightened hindsight, you can never predict the future. Where you are now might have nothing at all to do with where you might be next week. Easy simplistic philosophy 101, perhaps, but good to remember!

We’ve moved the distillery within Salalah, from Sa’ada back to Dahariz and there are a few changes. We no longer have a showroom/reception area. That plan of mine had a short and sweet lifespan and then became counter-productive. I was glad when the doorbells mysteriously stopped working: thank you, whomever did that!


And, I’m not making ice cream like I was. I used to almost always have a big stock of it ready for visitors and restaurants and the like, and while it was nice to have it handy, it was way too much trouble to keep up with. Impossible to ship to Muscat, and there is not one place here in Salalah (outside of my distillery) that could manage to store ice cream properly.

But it’s all ok, I’ve got other cream to stir. I had to come to the realization that Salalah was just not the best spot for me to sell anything. We can produce frankincense oil here, and that’s really all we need. I can still make ice cream if the need arises, and have been spending a lot of time in Muscat this season. I finally took off those rose colored glasses and once I got over the shock, things began to fall into place in a more realistic way. After all, I did do good. Enfleurage Middle East is still Salalah’s coolest distillery, even cuter in its new tropical garden incarnation. We produce fantastic frankincense oil, slow hydro-distilled, Boswellia sacra. Slow Aroma.


I had to make a complete re-evaluation of this company. My plans sometimes worked and sometimes not, and often for unfathomable reasons. For example: we no longer sell resin from Oman. I don’t know exactly what the reasons were but we had problems with every shipping company, the post office, etc. Sometimes we were told a week after shipping that we couldn’t ship this resin and it was the Muscat customs, or the American government, or FAA. Sometimes it went through.The rules changed constantly and arbitrarily. Trying to mail shipments of resin every month was too much. So khallas. My apologies!

We can’t ship the oil either, unless it’s a big order. Frankincense oil is classified as Dangerous Goods (DG) for cargo, because although the oil is stable, the flashpoint is below the cutoff point. So while you can actually fly with a few kilos in your luggage, you can’t ship it normally. Only DHL will take it and only with the special DG charges. So if you order a kilo of oil, your shipping is out of control expensive as the Dangerous Goods fee is applied per shipment and not per weight. And although small sizes (under 30 ml) are usually exempt from this charge, here they are not, and we have a really hard time shipping them. So we ship most of our frankincense essential oil to the US, and then we ship from there. It’s way better, and it only took me several years of stubbornly trying to do it the other way before I realized it! We still keep some here, for domestic sales, and any large (over 20 kilo) orders in the Americas, Europe or Asia can go DG no problem.

All that probably sounds like sad news but it’s not! Truthfully, it was incredibly frustrating to try and ship this stuff with the mixed messages I would get, and my unreasonable (for Oman) expectations on how things work. So now we just focus on producing great oil and it’s totally available via UPS ground from Enfleurage in New York!!

Enfleurage Middle East was featured on CNN’s Inside the Middle East this past fall and recently re-aired. It’s a fascinating segment and highlights not just us but also the Arabian Leopard and the verdant life and landscape of Dhofar in the summer monsoon.


We’ve got a couple more shows coming up and will be filming over the next few weeks, including one piece on Hafah Frankincense Market. Rumor has it this souq will be demolished after this khareef and in fact the entire rest of Hafah has already been bulldozed. You can read about it on Dhofari Gucci and see my demolition video on YouTube. But we’re a month on from that video, and the damage is far greater now. The entire corniche, and the commercial area just past the market are all destroyed and no word yet on what, if anything, is going up in its place. Looks like Dresden.


Yeah, a lot changed here.

Happily, the new distillery is in an adorable little villa, tucked away almost invisibly. A mad assortment of birds, and explosive fragrant plant growth combine to make a tiny Eden. Even the ridiculous weaver birds incorporate lemongrass and bouganvillea flowers in their nests. It’s completely absurd.



Ice Cream continues to fascinate me and I was just in Thailand for a couple of days where I had oh-so-cool Thai coconut street ice cream, served in a freshly scraped young coconut shell (so the tender meat is your ice cream base) and an assortment of add-ons, some of which I recognized, all of which I had: sticky rice, peanuts, sweet red kidney beans, corn (of course,) and a couple of wiggly jelly things.







I also had a completely ridiculous....thing....it’s actually a sno-cone, but it’s shaped like a volcano and sweet Thai Ice tea (or coffee) is poured all over it, along with slivered almonds, tapioca balls and a mysteriously torn up slab of sweet white bread. Whipped cream on top and various little jelly balls and stuff. It’s simply magnificent, very impressive. Tasty too, but the real fun is the drama of the presentation.










Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Welcome Home Your Majesty!

His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has arrived back in Oman after 8 months of medical treatment!

He walked unaided down the red carpeted steps from the Royal Jet and looks great! I believe I can say everyone is delighted, Omanis and expatriates one and all.

Welcome Home, Your Majesty, your country missed you.