A Hundred Years? Or Just Five Days?

Sicily is so delightful, I’m actually suspicious. The air is like little kisses-Santa Barbara is like that too, so it’s a Mediterranean climate thing, with all its eddies and flows: jasmine, lavender, rosemary, juniper, sage, and of course, citrus. But it’s not California; it’s Sicily. Why does everything look fantastic, even when it’s decaying back to the earth? It smells grand, everywhere. Yesterday I had the pleasure of visiting one of our new citrus suppliers, and arrived just in time to watch the weeks last processing of green mandarin.

 Long ago we had the three Mandarins, not just the one, and hopefully we can go back to three as soon as the season permits.

First, there is green, unripe Mandarins. These have a tart, acidic edge to their sweetness, nothing surprising about that. The green mandarins are the freshest, most vigorous of the three, and most useful in perfumery...according to Mr. Sandro. And he would know.

Green

Second, and with their season just barely starting, are the Yellow Mandarins. They are just ripe. Now, these are pure happiness. Yellow Mandarin oil is a smile, a laugh, a delight, and a zest for life. It is impossible to smell yellow Mandarin oil and not have your spirits lifted up immediately. Yellow Mandarin makes you dance, frisk and leap around like a baby horse.

Yellow

Third, and not starting the season for another month at least, is Red Mandarin. This is the one you find most commonly. It’s the more mature fruit, and the biggest crop of all Mandarins, and, I think, the one you usually see under the name “Mandarin.” This oil is still wonderful, still mouth-watering, but without the green acerbic edge or the maniacal burst of happy wonder. Red Mandarin is calm and mature, serene and soft.

I’ve spent most of my time in the north of Sicily, on one of the Agriturismos, midway between Termini Imeresi and Cefalu, in the hills. It’s name is Terre di Himera and I will give the link at the end of the post. It’s about a nice a place as you will find in this world. First, the owners, Marie and Fabrizio, are so kind, so helpful, so gentle, and they cook dinner. Now, this dinner, (and they easily accommodate vegetarians,) is entirely made from local ingredients. Meaning, the olive oil is their own, pressed from their own trees, the bread (and pasta) is made from local Sicilian flours, not replicated elsewhere, not even in New York, people. The vegetables and cheeses are all from the immediate area (with the possible exception of Parmesan,) as does the wine, the grappa, the fruits (prickly pears, apples, pears, lemons, pomegranates, etc) and even the Gelato.

Pistachio and Coffee

 In fact, just nearby, in the town of Cerda, sits the most respected Gelateria in Sicily. Antonio Cappadonia is the Maestro. I tried one of the chocolates, the lemon (!), the almond, the pistachio, and the coffee. They were life changing flavors, seriously. I can’t even write and wig about them. Like nothing I ever tasted before. And let’s just say that texturally.........it’s a new meaning for “Creamy.” And yes, they were fragrant gelati. Perfume/ice cream.....here it is, just as I thought. They are a perfect and logical extension of each other, thank God. And yes, I met him. And I hope to be able to write about something in the future.....you wouldn’t believe the jasmine here.

 The animals at Terre di Himere are friendly, cared for, and gentle, not scared of anyone, as they meet with kindness daily. The cats even know enough to sit at the doorway to the kitchen, not inside, as they practice their pitiful mews to show how they are really starving they are, poor things.

 I can’t say enough about the food. If you come here, you will probably think you should try a variety, try a restaurant, as well as the home cooked food, and maybe you will find a good meal. But if you love good food, and think that something made with love and care, with the world’s best and freshest ingredients (and not expensive at all either,) is interesting, then just tell Marie or Fabrizio that you would like dinner, please. You won’t be sorry.

 The lodge is wonderful in itself, populated with aromatic plants and happy animals, and everyone is friendly, even the other guests.

I must admit it’s fantastic to be in an environment where everything doesn’t have to be a secret, emotions can be shown, relations can be natural and normal, food enjoyed, and animals petted. It’s a big relaxing breath of fresh air.

Terre di Himera